Hiking the Italian Alps: A 5 Day Dolomites Hike Recap

I recently returned from an unforgettable, thought provoking, soul inspiring trip to the Dolomites, hiking the Alta Via 2 trail. Holidaying in Italy for me had previously always been very coastal. Think Cinque Terra, Amalfi Coast, beach hopping the Italian Rivera. So when Karl suggested a 10 day hike in the Dolomites, I knew I needed to venture away from my comfort zone and give the chance of a new experience a real go.

I was nervous, but excited, but nervous. So while Karl did a lot of the planning and research I did my own research in reassuring myself I was capable of taking on Alta Via 2. I found some online resources very helpful, revisiting this blog multiple times before the hike.

Our itinerary ended up being a tailored version vs the guide book, fitting our needs and how many days we wanted to be hiking for. We were taking a block of annual leave, and decided we wanted to incorporate a mix of hiking and some well deserved down time. The split: 5 days walking, 4 day relaxing by Lake Garda (but more of that another day).

So, 5 days walking - that means we had to condense 10-14 days into 5 days...Call it confidence in our a abilities or being naïve - I'll leave that with you to decide.

The process of condensing was: Karl studying the guide book, deciding which of the day's as outlined in the guide book, could squish into one day, and identifying where the path passes through Dolomite villages for 'early exit' options. For us, the early exit we took was San Martino, outlined as Day 8 in the guide.

If your math brain is working you'll catch that this means we really only ended up walking two double days. Though, frequency is outweighed here by the fact they were big days, culminating in us never really having a 'short' day.

Our Itinerary for a 5 day Dolomites hike in Italy:

Plose -> Passo di Poma -> Pisciadu -> Lago Di Fedaia -> San Pellegrino -> San Martino

Day One: Plose -> Passo di Poma

Day Two: Passo di Poma -> Pisciadu

Day Three: Pisciadu -> Lago Di Fedaia

Day Four: Lago Di Fedaia -> San Pellegrino

Day Five: San Pellegrino -> San Martino

By the end of Day 5 we'd walked 110.67km with 5,323m elevation game. Our total time walking was 27hrs.

Each day was so varied. Each day the terrain and scenery was different to the day before.

Each day was filled with beauty in the surrounds, connecting us with such a gorgeous part of the world.

Each day, went a little something like this...

Day One: Plose -> Passo di Poma:

A beautiful way to enter the trail, and ease into the next few days. We stayed in Bressanone the night before, and after a short taxi ride up to the Plose Gondola we were welcomed onto the path by some friendly local sheep - ahead of some early incline. Nothing like kicking off a 5 day Dolomites hike with incline to get you into the swing of things.

Climbing along side what would be a ski slope in the Winter, before winding back across through the hills and moving deeper into more forest like surrounds. Just us, our footsteps, and some chirpy little birds for the first half of the day.

We stopped for lunch at Rifugio Halslhutte, enjoying a delightful mountain meal on their terrace, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Dolomites.

Reenergised, it was onwards and upwards after lunch, toward our first nights accommodation. Winding once more through dense tree-scape, coming upon a looser terrain than we'd trekked earlier in the day. A waterfall and it's glistening stream separated us from our path continuation. Balancing across the non-submerged rocks, we successfully made it across the stream before coming upon the first big pass of the week.

It was a steep one but with fresh legs, we managed it seamlessly. As we ascended across the ridge, the beauty of the Dolomites revealed itself, sprawling far and wide showcasing itself in possibly the grandest sense it had all day. The sheer size of the land we were walking was visible for miles. Our first nights accommodation was only another 30min walk from here. And I admit that I only just said we had fresh legs, but the pass did bring on the late afternoon hunger. And first day fatigue hits different as your body is building up it's stamina. So a few lollies (I'm Australian remember not British, I will call them lollies not sweets) later there we were on the home stretch to some down time.

Our first nights accommodation was at Refugio Schlüterhütte.

We opted for half board, with breakfast included. Dinner was very reasonably priced and the beds were comfortable. They also have a shower, which for 3euro can be enjoyed hot for 5 minutes. Worth it, in my opinion. We closed Day 1 Marmot spotting and watching the sunset, lowering itself behind the mountains that stretched out beyond our Refugio.

We were immersed in the magic of the Dolomites, ready to take on the days ahead.

Day Two: Passo di Poma -> Pisciadu

Nothing hits like a cold-mountain-water shower in the morning to get you raring to go. Trust me.

After coffee and breakfast we were off - though, off in this case meant walking back and forth between the two paths leading away from the Refugio, passing each path 3 times, before determining which was the one we wanted to take.

Then, we were off and on our way. The cloud was low this morning. A thick fog ensuring we couldn't see more than a metre in front of us. The track wasn't technical at this point, so there was no real danger. The biggest impact was not being able to enjoy the view.

Reaching the perimeter of another valley, as we wound along its outskirts, the cloud started to clear. And once it started, it moved quite quickly - a reminder at how quickly weather can move in the alpine regions. As it lifted, the vibrant green valley below revealed itself, along with a galloping deer, prancing through the morning air. Shortly after, a Marmot popped its head out to greet the sunshine too. We were energised and excited. Our conversation was light, we'd been graced by multiple species of mountain wildlife in a short span of time, and we were cruising along a mostly levelled section. Noticing people seemed to be slowing and halting further along, starting to gather in groups, we soon realised we were approaching the first pass of the day.

Sooner again, we saw that snow was still covering the path, and we would first need to vertical climb up shale rock, before passing over the snow capped peak. There is something very encouraging about a group of strangers, coming together at a challenging section of a hike, to support and lift (metaphorically of course) each other through. The vertical climb was the first most nerve-racking moment, loose rock moving underneath every foot, and the sound of stone trickling behind my path. Of course, always trying our best to disturb as little of the mountain as possible. The nerves here, were quickly surpassed by the task of crossing the snow peak horizontally, before climbing it vertically too. Fearful of ice dislodging beneath my foot. The nerve-stinging warning of 'ROCK' being called. The sounds of rock and ice scattering down, past and behind me. Reaching the top of this pass to see clear stoned path down the other side, was the most comforting sight since my coffee this morning.

Feeling accomplished and pleased with ourselves, it was onwards toward lunch. Another 2hrs on from here, we walked into Puez Hütte for lunch, slightly behind schedule thanks to the snowed-over pass adding more time to the morning than anticipated.

The incline we'd climbed was on show as we departed Puez Hütte where we'd fuelled ourselves up. The terrain had changed, and the Sun was shining again. Spying our first mountain lake, the water glistening as it sparkled surrounded by sheer stone towers.

The challenges of this section of the day: old injuries flaring up, and unwanted blisters forming. We were persevering knowing that slowing down wasn't really an option.

Now enduring some hectic decline, the clouds turned moody and as quickly as the fog had lifted this morning, they smothered the blue sky, suffocating the cheery atmosphere that had shone only minutes earlier. Unleashing a hectic downpour that, from that moment on, forced us to take the path with more caution and care. Adding more time again, to an already shrinking time window for day 2.

Making it into the village town at the base of our last ascent of the day, we'd already walked 21km, we had 2hrs to go and it was 4pm.

The aches and pains of the day had quite frankly shattered us, there was risk of another down pour, but with a reassuring look to one another, a quick snack break to push us up the last pass, we soldiered on toward Pisciadu Hütte - our second nights accommodation.

Over the two hours that followed, I tapped into a part of me I'd never quite realised before. Facing up to a physically demanding and mentally testing scenario to climb a pass that was made up of most shale rock, snow and iced up via ferrata. Through the grey mist of the moody clouds engulfing the pass, I could hear the running sound of water. The sound that snow makes when it is melting down the mountain. Unable to see where the top was, unable to go back down either. In moments like this, Karl, who is also feeling challenged and nervous himself is the most supportive and encouraging companion. Keeping me calm, but not bullshitting on what's around the corner.

Reaching the top, the sigh of relief was both soothing and exciting. Soothing, because I was so glad that was over with, and exciting because I was so proud of what we had just achieved!

Seeing the Refugio, my eyes spoke directly to my legs, picking up pace again, eager to get inside. We crossed the top of the peak toward the Refugio, through 1m of snow, laughing and smiling, knowing we really had accomplished a lot today - Day 2 was done, it was time to rest and relax.

Day Three: Pisciadu -> Lago Di Fedaia

Setting off on our shortest day, holding high hopes comparing to the day before. Our second mountain lake welcoming us to the day, just outside our Refugio (we had not noticed the evening prior, caring only about getting inside and relaxing at that point), glistening in it's icy surrounds. The snow reflecting brightly against the clear blue water.

We were heading for the highest peak of the mountain we were on, before making our way down the other side. Seemingly straightforward enough, but a slower journey because of the snow still covering the top of the mountain. My personal assumption, and not scientific at all - being early in the season the snow hadn't melted, but also Spring wasn't too warm to encourage snow melting at the higher altitudes. Later in the season, this path would be clear of snow. But for now, it's snow trekking.

Across the morning we spent 3-4hours walking through snow. A well timed pit stop for a coffee and cake, was enhanced by the friendly conversation we shared with the owner of Rifugio Boè, whose family owns and run the hut. The insight into the lifestyle of Alpine region families is so impressive and so unique. The time spent at Rufugio Boè energised into the second half of the morning hike, and the part of the morning that was proving to be the most challenging - mentally. Skirting the perimeter of a huge snow gully, ensuring our footing on the packed snow (from other walkers)and taking each step slowly, with care. Some snow iced under your foot, other steps - still soft. Your leg sinking 50cm into the snow on planter. To step outside of my nerves and fear at this point, there is actually insane scenery to take in, the sheer size and beauty of the snow covered Dolomites, a dramatic landscape that leaves you in awe. Karl and I an ant on Natures stone walls. Returning to my nerves. Nearing the end of the snow covered path, I wholeheartedly was over walking through snow. Granted, the last path was the narrowest of them all, I'm talking one foot in front of the other narrow. Even so, I craved solid ground under my feet.

The journey from snow to solid ground, was down a shale rock zig-zag path. Thankfully we were out of the snow, but we were going from near 3000m down to near 2000m, very quickly - so the footing was still not secure.

Reaching solid ground was not our final resting place for the day, but it did mean we could finally stop for a quick lunch.

Quick being the salient word here. Remember when I said we were onto our shortest day? Well the snow start to the day added an extra 2-3hrs, and because of that pace, we couldn't risk underestimating the rest of the day

Taking the the vertical rain that greeted us after lunch in our stride, it was otherwise a really chill hike around to Lago di Fedaia.

Solid ground beneath our feet, snow capped mountains in the distance, we were back to grass covered terrain, where Marmots whistle.

Our destination for day 3 was Rifugio Dolomia. Hands down, this was my favourite stay. Maybe it was the fact we hadn't showered since two days prior, maybe it was because I was still slightly traumatised from the day before, maybe it was the hectic mornings journey or maybe it was because Mark Wahlberg (and our conclusion, the whole cast and crew) stayed there when filming the Italian Job. But the hospitality, facilities, hot shower, real bed, 3 course dinner and buffet breakfast all rounded out to be a hugely enjoyable and delightful stay.

Day Four: Lago Di Fedaia -> San Pellegrino

The beauty of Lago Di Fedaia really re-energised us. The dawn of Day 4 brought with us delight, excitement again and the belief that we really could achieve the day ahead of us.

The air was calm stepping out onto the terrace of our room. Taking in the peaceful view of the lake, the movie-star bridge, and looking back along the ridge of the opposite mountain, that we had walked the day before.

A glorious buffet breakfast and two coffee's deep, it was ciao to the Rifugio and the cheerful owner - stepping out onto the pavement toward our next destination.

Walking along side the famous Marmolada for the first part of the day. Us, declining toward Malaga Ciapela, the Marmolada, flexing it's grandness with every meter we were slopping. And slope we did, until the paved road turn to white, loose stone again and we were looking upon another section of incline.

Four days in, fatigue was setting in much easier. We had the goal of a sauna waiting for us at our next accommodation, but first we had to make it up another pass. A pass that while not as technical as previous days, was loose rock the entire way and that fatigue I mentioned, well, it really opened up the risk of attention-lacking ankle rolls. A few negative comments to myself later, we were hi-fiving each other at the top, looking ahead toward the now green, grass covered path laying out in front of us. Sloping and spreading deep into the horizon ahead. Notably and joyfully - no more peaks in the remainder of today's sightline.

Unique to this stretch of the hike, we began to pass through fields that farmers shepherd cattle through, following a cow trodden path, winding down through the fields.

Two Ibex quietly grazing on a perch in the semi-close distance. A magnificent creature to see in their habitat, an intimidating creature to see in their habitat.

Moving purposefully, demonstrating that we we're simply passing by and not there for them. Avoiding eye contact, but also needing to keep one eye on them, making sure they are staying put.

A tense moment, but a glorious one, witnessing such a creature!

Eventually coming in directly behind farm houses indicating we were exceptionally close to lunch.

The sauna at Hotel Costabella was getting closer, only 30 minutes on from lunch. A timeframe so short in comparison to the rest of our journey, mentally I'd already arrived.

The walk into San Pellegrino was flat having left the peaks of Marmolada behind us. Spying the first of many herds of cows, perhaps they were yesterdays tenants of the path we just graced, the sounds of their cow bells echoing to welcome us in. Another day had been conquered, only one more laid ahead of us.

But first - a soothing Sauna.

Day Five: San Pellegrino -> San Martino

The sound of cow bells welcomed in the final day. There was an energy that said, let's get it done! Our muscles had been treated to the soothing temperatures of a sauna and steam the night before, doing marvellous things to the stiff movement that had settled in the evening prior.

Another buffet breakfast (at this stage, we were beginning to forget what a normal breakfast was) enjoyed, we were once again fuelled and ready to go. A shift in landscape again today, the path started in thicker covering of bushland before breaking out onto what was clear were, (at a minimum red) ski runs in the winter season.

It was a heads down, glutes on scenario for Karl and I. Finding our groove and making our way up to the flatter surrounds, where we allowed conversation to return. We ventured on, passing more ski runs, along wide tracks, past horses, and more cows, treating ourselves to a coffee at the base of our final(!!) pass. Our coffee stops had become a favourite daily ritual of mine. To stop a moment, sit and sip in such a unique part of the world, acknowledging what had been achieved already and that we had the power to complete all that was to come. It was the caffeine or (more likely) the knowledge that it was the final pass of the hike, that really pushed and took me up to the top of that final pass. The sky was clear this morning, for miles we could see the ridge we peaked over yesterday, and ridges and peaks that extended out beyond. A breath-taking moment to really stop and appreciate what we had achieved and that we were heading out toward our final destination today. A sentimental moment, it was here the path split off, bidding farewell to Alta Via 2, a trail that had given us so much over the past 5 days. But this was still not the end.

Onwards we went, toward San Martino. Spotting Marmot's, having a stare contest with some grazing cows in the Sun and down into the valley. Realising we again needed to walk up a hill (me severely misunderstanding that the final pass didn't mean there was no more incline), but a final mountain lunch was waiting for me at the top.

The atmosphere in this area was so lively and contagious. Bring day hike area the crowds are much bigger than those of any other day. But the energy was so alive and filled with excitement. We were almost at our final destination, tired, but with a full heart. The energy and enthusiasm that was contagious, carrying us out off the mountain, down to San Martino.

Before lunch we were ready to catch the bus to the hotel. But after taking a moment to fill our bellies and reflect on what we'd achieved so far - we knew we had an extra 7km in us! And walk the whole way to our hotel we did. Reaching Hotel Fratazza in San Martino 110.67km (and 5,323m elevation gain) after leaving Plose Gondola, 5 days earlier.

Taking my shoes off at the end of Day 5 feeling so much joy, and accomplishment in my soul. Proud of us, proud of me - I smile now even writing this post.

Our 5 Day Dolomites Hike was complete.

Every experience is always so different, some leave lasting impressions. This one, this one is lasting.

Until next time,

Dani xo

Travel Tip: If you are visiting Trento region, ask your accommodation about Trento Pass. According to the website and my understanding from our host, all accommodations in the region are required to provide it if you ask. Our accommodation was kind enough to inform us about it, allowing us to travel from San Martino all the way down to Lake Garda before needing to pay for public transport. Huge value win if you're in the Trento region!!